Sunday, 29 July 2018

Gems - Jewells - Ornaments...


Prafulla Kumar Mohanty


Almost all the economies of the world have given up Gold Standard ,but women and men all over the world, especially in Asia and particularly in India continue to be in gold standard: the driving thought is ornaments make the human body more beautiful. A naked woman is not beautiful; nudity ornamented creates more beauty and stimulates desire to a boiling point. Vatsayana in his Kamasutra observes that a woman’s beauty attains aesthetic heights when she’s well ornamented from top to toe. The names of ornaments which are listed in Indian sahstras amazes the world. Our deities both female and male are decorated with gold, pearls, diamonds, emeralds - red and black rubies from crown to feet. Lord Jagannath of Puri is the most ornamented deity in the world. Five times a year He is decorated with ornaments of all sizes hues and verities. The Suna besha (ornamented form) of Jagannath attracts an eager crowd of more than Ten lakhs every year, particularly when the deities on their return from their annual yatra enter the temple all dolled up. The Indians all over the country love ornaments. Gold is also considered to be a saving against the rainy day. The yellow metal adds to the prestige of a family and enhances the personality of the men and women. Gold is the most important item in dowry. Often brides are rejected if sufficient gold is not given in dowry. Demand for dowry is now not virulent in marriages but parents of girls always keep gold as the most prized priority in their voluntary dowry list. Although in the rich and educated families the yellow metal has lost its sheen decorating the body with jewels occasionally for bridal nights and ceremonial occassions still continues. The tattoo has replaced carnal ornamentation but gold and gems are proud possessions of all families. Artificial jewellery too has come up in big way for fear of thieves but women wear the arty works keeping their ornaments in bank vaults.

India has been  the home of gems and ornaments right from pre- vedic days.  Books in Gemmology have been mostly written in India. These books date back to 5th century BCE. In Sanskrit poetry and drama a great deal of description of jewellery is noticed. A princess is seldom described without ornaments. Gems, stones, pearls and diamonds were natural crystals found in river beds. Even today gems are found on sand and gravel in some areas of western Odisha.  Ancient India was a land of gems- gold and diamonds were plentifully available in India. Dryden in one of his plays describes India as a land of gems. Before the Christian Era India was a prosperous nation. Poor neighbours attacked India only to loot this country for their survival. Persia, Afghanistan and some European countries had regular commerce with India wherein gems played a large part. As early as 2000 BCE Indian diamonds were used in Egypt and other countries for making tools. Gold was always considered as auspicious in India. Men and women wore rings in their fingers (in the least) to ward off evil influences or to attract magically men and women. Diamond was (and is) not only the most precious gem, it was considered to be fate changing and fortune enhancing. But diamond is also considered evil if it does not suit a person. The history of Indian empires is full of records how kings, princes, courtesans and common men suffered due to the hostile rays of diamonds. The Afghans, Khorasans and Moguls who came to India to loot her treasures were all victims of their greed for diamonds.

The Vijayanagar Empire in the past always prided for its gems. Almost 60% of the large diamonds came from south India.  The world famous Kohinoor looking almost the size of a hen’s egg weighed 109.3 karats: its present weight, however, is less than 100 karats as it has been cut for more beauty and glaze by the British. This diamond has changed hands and places with the Mogul emperors and aggressors is now the Jewel in the Crown of the British who refused to return it to India. But all those who possessed this diamond had fateful events and fatalities as recorded in history. ShahJahan, Nadir Shah up to the present day England – impoverished and powerless as she is now- had prosperity and calamity in mingled measures. Diamond merchants too enjoy and suffer both prosperity and ignominy, like Nirav Modi. The story of diamonds is full of romance and tragedy.

But India continues to value gold and gems even today as evidenced by her huge imports. The Bullion market is still the barometer of a country’s prosperity. The jewellery market has given employment to a large body of artisans. Diamond cutters of India are everywhere in the world, including China.

In the 21st century digital economy, Ecommerce, data religion have replaced most of our old practices of living. But gold, gems and the artistry of ornamentation have not reduced our admiration for the stones as a bejewelled body is still considered to be aesthetic and beautiful. Even poor women from undeveloped areas deck themselves with plastic beads and artificial pearls.  Nothing wrong if the body beautiful gets more enthralling with metals yellow, red or black: who cares for inner beauty and by god what is that.

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